I love the iTunes feature that retrieves track names from the Web. But how do I keep the tracks in the CD’s playing order as opposed to alphabetical order? As soon as iTunes saves the album of MP3s into a folder on my hard drive, they appear alphabetically, and I have to type in all the track numbers. If I make a playlist, I have to type them in a second time.
— Sean Harris, Columbus, Ohio
If the tracks appear to be out of order in iTunes, try clicking on the Album heading. Once the tracks are organized by Album, you may discover that they appear in reverse order–the last track first and the first track last. To put things right, simply click on the tiny triangle in the Album column heading to reverse the track order.
The order in which tracks appear in the Finder has no influence on how they appear in iTunes. I can think of only one situation in which Finder order makes any difference: when you use Apple Disc Copy to burn MP3 files to an MP3-formatted CD.
In such a case, if you drag and drop those MP3 files to the CD image on your desktop, the tracks will indeed appear in alphabetical order. To change this list in the Finder so that it appears as it does on the album, switch to List view and sort the tracks by Date Modified–because the first track was burned earliest, it will appear first in the list, followed by the second track, and so on. Regrettably, the tracks won’t remain in this order when you move them to the CD.
To keep the tracks in album order, you must first organize the tracks by Date Modified and then number each track sequentially. For example, append 01 to the first track, 02 to the second, and so on. Even though you can do this manually, a program such as Frank Reiff’s $15 shareware application A Better Finder Rename (http://www.publicspace.net/ABetterFinder Rename) will automate the process.
I Boot from iPod
I have read repeatedly about the possibility of putting a bootable version of OS 9 or OS X (or even both) on an iPod. How do I do this without damaging the music part of it? And how do I boot from an iPod?
— Sebi Meyer, Macworld Forums
As we used to say in the funked-up seventies, “Ain’t no thang.” (For those of you who aren’t hep to this jive, it means “this isn’t a big deal.”) Just attach the iPod to your FireWire Mac. If iTunes 2 doesn’t pop open on its own, launch it. In the iPod Preferences window, select the Enable FireWire Disk Use option.
Now restart your Mac. Once your iPod has mounted, insert an OS installation disc (either Mac OS 9.2 or OS X) and run the installer. When the installer asks where you’d like to install the operating system, navigate to the iPod and click on Continue to step through the rest of the installation. When you want to boot from your iPod, plug it into your Mac. Once it’s mounted, select it as the start-up disk in OS 9’s Startup Disk control panel or in OS X’s Startup Disk system preference. Restart your Mac to boot from the iPod.
I have a 733MHz Power Mac G4 with an internal CD-RW drive. I’m interested in burning my own DVDs. My computer includes a copy of iDVD, even though it did not come with the SuperDrive. If I buy a Pioneer DVR-A03 drive (it’s the same as the SuperDrive), will it work with iDVD?
— Joseph Minio, Rye, New York
According to Apple, no. The company’s iDVD 2 FAQ explicitly states that “iDVD 2 is designed to work only with the Apple SuperDrive available on certain configurations of Power Mac G4 computers.”
To which I say, “Fiddlesticks.”
A host of people I trust implicitly (some of them employed by this very magazine) have replaced the DVD-ROM drive on their AGP Power Mac G4s with a Pioneer DVR-A03 (310/952-2000, http://www.pioneerelectronics.com) and use it with the original iDVD, iDVD 2, and DVD Studio Pro without difficulty. You can also use Roxio’s Toast to burn data to DVD-R discs with this drive.
As we go to print, the DVR-A03 is selling for a little over $400. Pioneer has released an updated drive, the 104. When this drive starts shipping in quantity (it currently ships in the new iMac), you should see the price of the A03 drop.
This hasn’t been a hitch-free operation for everyone, however. In early models of the Pioneer drives, some users had to update the firmware to version 1.65 (this update is available on Pioneer’s Web site, but you’ll need the assistance of a PC running Windows to install it). If you purchase such a drive now, the firmware version should be compatible with your Mac. And the drive–just like the SuperDrive–is anything but a speed demon. Shove this type of drive into your Mac, and you’ll find that it copies data to your hard drive far more slowly than your old media drive did.
A client of mine using OS X needs to synchronize his Entourage e-mail, calendar, and contact data on the iBook he carries on the road and the iMac in his office. Data changes on both machines when he’s traveling (he works on the iBook and his assistant uses the iMac), so rewriting one of the files completely (as OS 9’s File Synchronization would do) is not an acceptable route. I’m stumped. Any ideas?
— Jason Tertadian, Madison, Wisconsin
You mean other than contacting Microsoft and suggesting that future versions of Entourage let you import only new data from a copy of Entourage running on the network? Well, yes, I have an idea, but it may seem clunky.
In order for these two Macs to collaborate, you must create two identities on each of them–one for the stay-at-home iMac and one for the footloose iBook. It just so happens that Entourage (as well as Outlook Express) allows you to create just such multiple identities. To create a new identity in Entourage for OS X, select Switch Identity from the Entourage menu (in pre-OS X versions of both Entourage and Outlook Express, you’ll find this command under the File menu).
When you’re greeted with the “Are you sure you want to switch identities?” message screen, click on Switch. In the resulting dialog box will be
a list of your current identities (if there is only one, it will be called Main Identity). You’ll also see the New button. Click on this button to name and create a new identity, and click on OK (see “A Whole New You”). Up pops the Setup Assistant, asking you for the settings necessary to send and retrieve e-mail.
When you come back from your next trip, you can go to the home directory of each Mac and open Documents: Microsoft User Data: Office X Identities. (If you are running Outlook Express or Office 2001 in OS X’s Classic mode, look for Identities or Office 2001 Identities, respectively.) Copy the appropriate identity to the same folder on the other Mac. In this case, you’ll copy the iMac identity to the iBook and vice versa.
When you perform this copy operation, you’ll overwrite the original files. If for some reason you don’t want to lose those originals, you should move them to another location before you start copying.
You will now be able to read the other computer’s e-mail or look at new contacts and calendar events by switching identities. Unfortunately, moving data back and forth between identities is anything but elegant. For e-mail, you can select all new messages, drag them to a folder on your desktop, switch identities, and then drag them back into the appropriate mail folder (Inbox, for example). Calendar events are even goofier. Drag all new calendar events into a folder on the desktop, switch identities, return to the Finder, select all your events, and then double-click on them. This process will open each event in a separate Entourage window and place it in the current identity’s calendar. To move Address Book entries, once again you drag new entries to the desktop, switch identities, open Entourage’s Address Book, and then drag the names into the upper pane of the Address Book window.
I use America Online as my ISP, and whenever I try to send more than one attachment by e-mail, the files get compressed into a StuffIt archive. This causes problems for my PC-using friends. Can I prevent this from happening?
— John Eddy, Virginia Beach, Virginia
Regrettably, no. You have to remember that AOL
is the Internet with training wheels. With the best intention of keeping you from wobbling and falling over, AOL’s software automatically performs certain functions–such as compressing multiple attachments. This can be very helpful for those new to computing and the Web, but savvier users who prefer to dictate their software’s actions often find themselves thwarted.
Although AOL lets you choose not to compress a single attachment, once you drop another attachment into the message, you’re stuck–you can search from one end of AOL’s Preferences window to the other, and you’ll find no way to switch off this “feature.”
You could, of course, recommend to your PC-packing pals that they download the PC version of StuffIt Expander from http://www.stuffit.com/expander (and honestly, if they have any interest in remaining your friends, they really should). But if you’re the kind of saintly individual who prefers to shoul-der these burdens yourself, you might consider compressing your files in the PC-friendly Zip format and then attaching that single archive to your outgoing message.
There are a couple of ways to do this. Aladdin, the maker of StuffIt Deluxe (831/761-6200, http://www.aladdinsys.com), bundles StuffIt Expander, DropStuff, DropZip, and DropTar in a perky little $50 shareware package called StuffIt Lite, which works with OS 9.2 and earlier and OS X. To create a Zip archive, simply place the items you want to attach into a folder, and drop the folder onto the DropZip icon. If you want to use the more full-featured StuffIt Deluxe, which lets you do this kind of thing via a handy Finder menu or contextual menu in OS 9.2 and earlier and OS X, pay a visit to Aladdin’s Web site, where StuffIt Deluxe is available for an additional $10.
Alternatively, you can try the $20 ZipIt shareware program (http://www.maczipit.com), by Tom Brown. Like DropZip and StuffIt Deluxe, ZipIt creates Zip archives that a Windows PC can open. ZipIt also includes an option that lets you create self-extracting Zip files. I had some difficulty creating ZipIt archives that decompressed on a Mac running OS X, but self-extracting archives encoded for the PC expanded properly on my PC running Windows ME.
More on Magnification
Regarding your answer to the “AppleWorks Amplified” question (Mac 911, January 2002), how do you choose document magnification of 150 percent? The only available magnifications at the bottom of the AppleWorks page are 100 and 200 percent.
— Eric Spain, Hong Kong, China
Eric, please don’t kick yourself when you learn how simple this is. It’s a feature that even seasoned AppleWorks users routinely miss. If you click and hold on the button that reads 100, you will be rewarded with a pop-up menu that displays a variety of magnifications. You’ll notice an entry labeled Other at the bottom of the list. When you select Other, the View Scale window presents itself. In this window, you can enter any magnification from 3.125 to 3,200 percent.